Amelia Island is a good couples' destination for an unglamorous reason: it is not busy. Outside two festival weekends and a handful of holidays, you can have an empty beach at dawn and a table at dinner, and that combination is harder to find on the Florida coast than it should be.
The one thing to get right
Sunrise is on the ocean. Sunset is on the river.
The island faces east, so the Atlantic side gets the dawn — and at 6.30am in summer you will have thirteen miles of beach essentially to yourself. Downtown Fernandina Beach sits on the Amelia River on the west side, so the sunset happens over the marina and the shrimp boats.
Get that the right way round and the days plan themselves: beach early, downtown late.
A first day that works
Dawn at one of the Fletcher Avenue numbered accesses or Main Beach Park — the walk from the car is a minute and the horizon is clean.
Breakfast back downtown once things open. Café Karibo's tree-shaded courtyard is the pleasantest place to sit on the island in spring and autumn.
Late morning at Fort Clinch State Park. An 1847 masonry fort you walk through rather than view, at the end of a mile of live oak canopy. Half a day if you also want the beach inside the park; two hours if you just want the fort.
Afternoon somewhere quiet — Amelia Island State Park at the southern tip, or Burney Park at American Beach. Both empty out in a way the city accesses do not.
Sunset at the bottom of Centre Street. The Salty Pelican's rooftop is what everyone means by sunset drinks downtown, and the demand is entirely predictable — arrive well before golden hour or eat at the bar downstairs.
Dinner downtown, walking distance from wherever you had the drink.
A second day
A guided kayak trip into the salt marsh behind the island. This is the island's best experience and the one most visitors miss entirely: narrow tidal creeks, dolphins in the river, wading birds throughout, and a landscape invisible from any road. Operators plan around the tide, which removes the one thing that ruins independent paddling here.
Centre Street in the afternoon — eight blocks of independent shops in Victorian storefronts, with the cross streets carrying as much as the main one.
The Amelia Island Museum of History if the Eight Flags story appeals: eight national flags have flown over this island, more than anywhere else in the United States.
A quieter dinner — downtown has enough range that two nights need not repeat themselves.
Where to stay
Downtown for Victorian inns and walking to dinner, with a two-mile drive to the sand. Oceanside Fletcher Avenue for a small inn or hotel on the sand five minutes from Centre Street — the option most people do not consider and often the right one. The Ritz-Carlton or the Omni on the south end for a full-service resort, at the cost of a fifteen-minute drive to dinner.
Two weekends to avoid, or target
Early May is the Isle of Eight Flags Shrimp Festival: streets closed, restaurants at capacity, accommodation gone months ahead. March is the Concours d'Elegance, which does the same thing to the south end.
Both are excellent if they are the point of the trip and a poor choice of weekend if they are not.
What we are not going to pretend
There is no spa town here, no fine-dining scene of any depth, and very little nightlife past about ten o'clock. The island's romance is a beach at dawn, a marsh at golden hour and a Victorian street at dinner. If that is the holiday you want, it delivers it better than places three times the size.